MASTERED WITH SAM MCKNIGHT
Sam McKnight is one of the most accomplished and well-respected hair stylists of his generation. His name is synonymous with modern hair – whether it’s in magazines, on the runway or the red carpet and he has created some of the most iconic hair in modern history – – Princess Diana’s short, slicked back style, Agyness Deyn’s bleached blonde crop, Madonna’s Bedtime Stories cover, Cate Blanchett getting her Oscar, Tilda Swinton channelling Bowie, Lady Gaga plus countless covers and editorial stories of Kate Moss and all the supermodels.
Our Belper Salon Manager, Colour Specialist and Art Team member Laura Robertson, applied and was accepted onto a four month ‘Mastered’ programme with Sam Mcknight in Autumn 2015. Here’s her account of what’s happened so far…
To be accepted into the Sam McKnight course is a huge honour that I am extremely excited to be a part of. I get asked on a daily basis what I do in my free time; the courses and opportunities that I often take part in inside and outside of the salon, so I thought it would be fun for both me and my clients if I shared this experience with anyone who wants to read about it. I want to take you along with me on my journey – after all, my clients are the ones who inspire me each and every day. I hope you enjoy reading about Mastered as much as I enjoy being part of it!
The Mastered programme is four-months long and led by hair icon Sam McKnight. Sam and his closest collaborators have set out to find and develop the most passionate and fearless hair professionals working today. I wanted to join this industry of insiders on a unique journey to success, taking in the world of campaigns, clients, shows and fashion and beauty editorials.
During this process I will be given a series of different breifs to guide and inspire me to create individual and unique styles. My first brief that I have been given is to draw upon inspiration from Emanuel Ungaro.
For those who do not know, Emanuel Ungaro is an esteemed fashion designer. Widely accepted to be the last grand couturier, he retired from fashion in 2005 – but his company continues to dominate fashion headlines today.
To begin my process into the research of this great designer I put together a mood board and research topics which would sculpt my journey to my final outcome.
THE EMANUEL UNGARO BRIEF
MY EMANUEL UNGARO MOOD BOARD
Emanuel Ungaro was extremely audacious. The first period of his career at the end of the 60’s is one of the most interesting. I took my inspiration from this moment of fashion revolution, mixing the stiff and sexy shapes from the 60’s with the extrodinary dramatic peices of the designer.
1. URSULA ANDRESS
It takes a lot of time, patience and an awful lot of research hitting dead ends until you find an image that inspires you. After looking at various sex symbols of the 60’s I came across the glamorous 60’s icon, bond girl and former sex symbol Ursula Andress. This is a perfect muse for me. Since Ursula Andress was the blueprint for all future ‘Bond girls’ she is both 60’s and modern day inspired. James Bond and his girls have evolved but never gone out of style and the films continue to be made, and this image from the famous scene of her coming out of the water with her hair wet was incredibly famous and has become an iconic look.
‘THE WET LOOK IS A CONTINUOUS ONGOING TREND AND IS A CATWALK FAVOURITE.
2. THE ROYAL WEDDING
Royal weddings are both traditional and glamourous and I am particulary interested in the 1960’s Royal Weddings because of the strong structured, silohetted fabrics which coinside with the lace and embellishment. This contrast of firm sculpted shapes and soft, textured fabrics has inspired by hair greatly in my final images. You will notice when looking at my final images that the hair has a bold shape to it but a soft texture to contrast.
3. FETISH ORCHID, SOFT AND BOLD.
Emanuel Ungaro discovered hardware and was thoroughly metal minded. He put his models into metal bras and was the leading metal merchant with body sculptures and body jewellery. At the time he was pushing the boundaries and making a statement. It gave women a strong image and always left you wanting to see more.
4.LEATHER VS METAL
Emanuel ungaro was always pushing the boundaries…contrasting different materials to create both a shiny and a matt effect. In this photo above, it makes the shoulder piece appear quite masculine and must be carried off by a strong confident woman. This is something I want to also bring into my final image, which I am going to try and re-create with black, sharp headband on blonde soft hair.
Appearing through his work is a strong and stiff structure which is something that I have taken inspiration from.
Emanuel’s metal ware collections have drawn me in and I am fascinated by these moulding garments that he used because it uses a variety of different materials and shows a diversity in sex appeal.
5. ART WORKS
This is one of my favourite peices. It is named ”The Secret Garden’ by Citco designed with Zaha Hadid architects in Milan, Italy. I love the smooth metal shapes contrasting along side the structure and dominance of the piece and how it changes shape from one side to the other and yet still flows.
6. VERSAILLES LACE MEETS REVOLUTION
I am really interested in all the textures and details in clothing and how stiff these images appear but also have that element of romance. this is something I would like to portray in my work.
7. 60’s OBSESSION
I love the 60’s and 60’s hair is beautifully technical and has come back around into fashion, therefore we are seeing more and more volume and lift within hair appearing in magazines and on the catwalk. I am really interested in the 60’s inspired hair of today and how is has evolved since the first time around. We are seeing more texture and techniques being used such as the use of bobby pins on show, textured unset waves and the different placement of headbands. This has really inspired by final peice, expecially in my Look 1 where I have created a contrast between an acordian headband which has scraped the front section back and a light and textured wave flowing down her back.
In this look I have combined all my research together for a final image. I took the Ursula Andress wet look and contrasted it with some tousled dry waves. I created the ‘wet look’ with gel along with a comb headband which defined each small section off of the face as if you have combed your hair wet and it separates. I wanted to keep the rest of the hair matt dry so mimic the textured lace photos that I found with the shape and spirit of the 60’s with a dash of romanticism of the Royal wedding.
This look I drew inspiration from today’s version of the 60’s. I wanted to execute a beehive with a twist on the shape to bring it back up to date. It is fresh and the simplicity of the front makes it a great look for catwalk. I used an acordian headband too execute the wet look and wanted to bring back that 60’s inspired volume into the back.